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And on the subject of “eggs”

Posted January 28th, 2006 at 10:58 am by Howard Tayler

In the Perfect Nines thread someone commented about why cookbooks recommend not cooking eggs in cast iron: they discolor (sometimes).

I’ve cooked eggs on the cast iron griddle, and not noticed discoloration (though my success at basting them there has been mixed — see the linked thread above for details). My guess: if you keep your cast iron freshly seasoned and use it often, your eggs will be a healthy white-and-yellow rather than brown and green.

But that’s not the issue here– the issue here is the difference between new cookbooks and older cookbooks. I was reading a recipe for eggs “over easy” in a new cookbook over at Chalain’s place, and was APALLED. It said that after cooking on the first side for 2 and a half minutes, you flip the egg over and cook for another 90 seconds.

I’ve got news for you… if you cook your egg that long, it’s not over easy. It isn’t over “medium.” I wouldn’t ever call it over “hard.” I’d just say it’s “overcooked” and throw the rubbery thing into the sink.
Why for the love of all things tasty would the chefs at Better Homes and Gardens or the kitchen priestesses at Betty Crocker (I forget the brand name of the cookbook) tell us that “over easy” is done this way? Well, the answer was in the back.

It’s a CYA: Cover Your (Attorney). They don’t want you to have the slightest bit of not-completely-cooked egg in your diet, lest you contract salmonella and sue Better Homes & Betty for mal-recipe-practice.

I’m guessing these same cookbooks will not give accurate timings for rare steak, juicy chicken, or (Betty forbid!) raw cookie-dough ice-cream. If the trend keeps up the only place you’ll find preparation instructions for steak tartare or sushi will be in the Anarchist’s Cookbook.

We have a 20-year-old “Joy of Cooking” book, and the recipes in there are SOLID. But I’m not sending that book to college with my kids 10 years from now, lest it get confiscated by the under-cover, under-done police.

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7 Comments to “And on the subject of “eggs””

  1. Comment @ 01/28/06 at 12:20 pm

    Tire patches. Dismount the tire, slap the overcooked egg on the hole, remount, air up. Voila.

  2. Comment @ 01/28/06 at 6:42 pm

    Alton Brown of Good Eats (yeah…he’s my cooking idol…) likes to point out these things on the show. He’s repeatedly explained that eggs are a) highly unlikely to actually contain salmonella, due to sanitation requirements, and b) even if the eggs DO contain salmonella, it would require far more than you’re going to get from one egg. The only real concern is if you get hold of a mishandled shipment of eggs.

    I just hope people start listening to Mr. Brown. Yeah…I spend way too much time watching that show.

  3. Comment @ 01/29/06 at 1:42 am

    The Joy of Cooking is the best all purpose cook book. It has recipies for everything from correctly done eggs to squirrel and opossum of all things, including how to dress them properly. Sure, it still advises adding dolomite to you hamburgers to “enrich” them, but you gotta take the bad odd with the good odd. Does anyone here know if people can even digest dolomite?

  4. Comment @ 01/30/06 at 12:29 am

    @Chris: AB also likes the good-old pasteurized shell eggs. Unfortunately I am unable to test these mythical items, like many of the things from Good Eats. Apparently his “local mega mart” in downtown Atlanta and my “local mega mart” in a rural Michigan lakefront community stock different items. Shocker!

    @Dave: Nobody can digest Dolomite! Dolomite gonna digest you, sucka! That hard, black mineral that never backs down, even when the man try to take what’s his!

    Also, cookie dough intended for raw consumption doesn’t need eggs, especially if you intend to freeze it into an ice cream. That’d be gross.

  5. Comment @ 01/30/06 at 6:03 pm

    Ahh eggs! I personally like mine scambled “soft”, the only problem is there are 2 versions of scrambled soft:

    1) restaruant style (aka Scambled runny)

    2) Scambled soft (aka w/ milk)

    The one is a disgusting mess and is probably the result of a fried egg gone bad and then scambled.

    The real deal is simple, fluffy, and very edible.

    Simply take 2 eggs, A splash of milk (whole preferably), mix vigourously in a bowl for 30 seconds, put in hot slightly buttered pan ( minus the bowl) and continiously mix while cooking until the “water” ( i’m not exactly sure what it is, but i assume it’s moisture from the milk and eggs) is mostly gone.

    Plate, garnish to your liking, and pig out.

  6. Comment @ 02/03/06 at 12:49 pm

    Re: old cookbooks - you need to make certain you have the *right* version of the Joy of Cooking. Ethan Becker (Irma Rombauer’s grandson and Maria Rombauer Becker’s son) did a revised version in the mid-90’s that chupas more than queso. Half the stuff that I use regularly from my spiral-bound JoC isn’t in the Ethan version.

    I seem to recall reading that the older version outsells the Ethan version by about 3 to 1 - apparently people were buying Joy of Cooking for information on canning and food preservation (the stuff that was cut out of the new version).

    I also have a late-50s edition of the Betty Crocker cookbook which I found in an antique store. This was a great find as it has REAL useful recipes. (I’d been looking for an older BC cookbook for some time - my mother still has the one she got when she got married in 1966, though now hidden in the binder from a replacement version she got in the mid-80s, most of which was discarded.)

    People love my baked goods and ask what my secret is. Simple, I say - I use cookbooks that were written before the fitness craze. Butter, not margarine. Crisco, not margarine. NOT MARGARINE.

  7. Jim
    Comment @ 06/01/06 at 1:36 pm

    I’ve finally (after a couple months) gotten my skillet to the point where it has that beautiful black sheen and extremely non-stick surface. When I wash it with a little hot water and a plastic grill brush, the water just runs right off, and anywhere it doesn’t I know I missed a spot. I haven’t had any trouble with eggs discoloring, and in terms of sticking the cast-iron actually works better than my Teflon pan - maybe because the iron will hold onto a little bit of the butter, giving an extra layer of fat between the egg and the skillet. Teflon won’t do that.

    What I usually do is drop in a dab of butter, wait for it to come up to temperature, and then add the egg near the side of the skillet, lifting the opposite side so the egg slides into the corner. Holding it there for a few seconds until the white just starts to set will help it hold its shape rather than flattening out on the bottom of the skillet, making it easier to flip and otherwise manipulate later on.

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