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Perfect Nines

Posted January 26th, 2006 at 2:44 pm by Howard Tayler

For me, the perfect skillet is determined by three things:

1) non-stick surface.
2) Nine-inch diameter.
3) A lid that fits.

This is because when I’m not low-carbing, my favorite breakfast in the world is two basted eggs with two pieces of toast, buttered, for dipping in the yolks. Other sides may accompany it — orange juice, grits, and bacon complete the “hearty” variation — but basted eggs and toast are the key elements.

With the impending Teflocalypse (Teflogeddon? Teflognarok? Find me a word that says “the end of the world if the world depends on Teflon”) I need to find a skillet that will work as well as any one of the four 9-inch teflon pans I’ve had over the last sesquidecade.

See, a basted egg BEGINS just like a fried egg — you take a yolk-intact egg and drop it gently into a hot pan, preferably with some butter already sizzling in there. (Note: in terms of timing, this is also the point at which the plunger on the toaster must be depressed). The egg is allowed to fry for a moment, and then the steam-basting begins.

You take the lid for the pan, put about 2 tbsp of water in the lid, and then dump the water in next to the egg. Now pop the lid on and wait for the toast to come up.

Yes, that’s how I time it. So very scientific, I know. It’s more of a performance art.

Anyway, when the toast is done, the egg is done (assuming you like your toast done the way I like mine done, and your toaster works like mine does, and you have the heat set right… so many variables, so many assumed values) and you put both of them on your plate.

If, that is, you can get the egg off the pan. See, with a good teflon pan, the boiling water will lift the egg from the surface, and the whole mess slides right out, no trouble. With stainless steel it just plain WON’T WORK.

The question — will it work with cast iron? I’m not about to go buy a 9″ cast iron skillet to TEST with, because I’m short the disposable income. I hope it works, though, because within five years both of my 9″ skillets are going to be due for replacement, and by then the Fourth Angel will be Brandishing His Spatula and Cleansing the Griddle of the World with Fire and With Olive Oil. Or something like that.

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18 Comments to “Perfect Nines”

  1. Comment @ 01/26/06 at 3:26 pm

    Actually, a 9″ cast iron skillet should be pretty cheap. I know you can get a 10″ Lodge pre-seasoned skillet for about $10. The fancy Lodge pans are probably a bit more (the enamel and pro ones).

  2. Comment @ 01/26/06 at 10:09 pm

    You know… I said nine inches. I think these pans are sold by the measurement of the BOTTOM diameter, which is eight inches. They’re nine inches when measured across the top.

    I’d say something pithy like “what’s an inch between friends” but that would only lead to places where there’s no food.

  3. Max
    Comment @ 01/27/06 at 7:06 am

    Yeah, I’ve been thinking the same thing. I’d like to get away from the usual non-stick (lifetime warranty=about 3 years if you’re careful). I’ve been looking at the Lodge Pro-Logic skillets on Lodge’s website. It has a more rounded shape that seems like it would make it easier to get eggs and fried cheese out of in one piece.

    Has anyone actually tried this?

  4. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 9:35 am

    I just looked at the Lodge Pro-Logic skillets. this 8″ skillet is just $9.99… but it has no lid. Not only is the lid not included, they don’t MAKE a lid for it.

    They DO make a nice lid for the 10″ skillet, but by the time you’re done you’re out $31, plus shipping.

    I suspect that for my breakfast ritual the 8″ skillet will work. It’ll take longer to heat up, but it’ll also outlast everything else in the kitchen (except the griddle). Still… what I currently have still works, so I’m not going shopping.

    –Howard

  5. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 10:26 am

    Howard, ever considered using a plate to top the skillet with?

    I’m not inclined to try your basting technique, as I prefer my eggs more fully cooked than that would seem to generate (i prefer the whites completely cooked, and the yolks somewhat oozy), but that would seem to answer your problem.

  6. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 11:06 am

    The basting method completely cooks the whites, and leaves the yolks oozy. And the only problem with putting a plate atop the skillet is that the steam will be escaping around the edges where you have to put your hand in order to lift the makeshift lid.

    When you burn your hand, you then drop the plate. (”I go through more lids this way…”)

  7. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 1:05 pm

    There are universal covers that fit most any size vessel, as seen on an episode of my favorite cooking show, Good Eats. They have a handle and everything. That, or find a lid that fits “well enough” at a restaraunt supply store, as everything is sold a-la-carte at those places.

  8. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 3:14 pm

    You should have no problem basting eggs in a well-seasoned cast iron pan. A few of my cookbooks, for reasons unbeknownst to me, recommend against cooking eggs in cast iron, but I routinely do it and it works well, assuming adequate butter.

    However, in the event that you cannot baste eggs following Teflognarok, poached eggs are nearly as easy to make, easily as fast, and just as good on toast. Just drop the eggs in salted boiling water, perhaps with a splash of vinegar, if you like the flavor. They’ll be done by the time the toast pops up.

    BTW, olive oil on toast is nice too. Hmmm.

  9. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 3:50 pm

    Why not just cook the egg on the griddle? Put the lid down right over the eggs. If the dome of the lid is high enough, this will allow for sufficient steam to cook the whites for you…

    I do something similar with omelets in my small skillet: I flip the eggs and then add the cheese, put a teaspoon of water in the lid and lid up my skillet. The steam carries more heat than just air, so the cheese melts faster :)

  10. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 4:05 pm

    Joshua — I tried that. Boy HOWDY does it make a mess. See, the trick is getting the water to stay under the lid. Anything that gets loose is splattering and steaming in the butter that isn’t under the lid, and stuff gets everywhere.

    With a 9-inch skillet and snug lid, however, the mess all stays in the pan. Cleanup is achieved by sliding it out onto the plate.

    –Howard

  11. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 5:27 pm

    “Teflocalypse”. (snort!) Perfect!

    CUAgain!

  12. Comment @ 01/27/06 at 5:31 pm

    Tried basting a couple of eggs in a cast iron skillet this morning. I skipped the butter though, and the eggs stuck just the tiniest bit. Easy to push out with a spatula. I happen to have a glass lid that fit almost exactly, allowing me to see when the eggs were done.

  13. Comment @ 01/28/06 at 3:35 am

    “A few of my cookbooks, for reasons unbeknownst to me, recommend against cooking eggs in cast iron”

    IIRC the reason is that eggs can discolor (usually green or blackish) due to a reaction with the iron cookware. It’s the same process that can turn long-cooked hard-boiled egg yolks that odd dirty green color (although in that case it’s a reaction in the iron compounds already present in the yolk). Looks bad, but shouldn’t affect the taste.

  14. Comment @ 01/30/06 at 1:35 pm

    As much as I hate to admit it, I spent a summer as a McDonald’s cook. I had a special contraption to cook the round eggs for the muffin sandwiches. It was a set of six egg rings with a rectangular flat lid that covered all six rings. There was a small funnel in the lid which held exactly one ounce of water. You cracked the eggs into the rings, punctured the yolks (CYA again), slapped the lid on and poured one ounce of water into the funnel. Since I was cooking on a big industrial surface with a monster ventilation hood, I never noticed the fumes, but when the water was gone, the eggs were done.

    I’ll bet you could use small ice cubes as a water delivery - use a glass lid so you can see when the water is gone, lift it STRAIGHT UP (none of the condensate will pour back onto your surface) and plate your eggs… This would avoid most of the spatter and hiss problem.

  15. Comment @ 01/30/06 at 2:04 pm

    Joshua: I too worked at McDonalds once. The round eggs for the muffin sandwiches need to have broken yolks so you don’t drip yellow breakfast goodness on your tie on the way to work. CYA may enter into it, but it’s been this way since 1983, at least.

    –Howard

  16. Comment @ 01/31/06 at 7:59 am

    Howard -
    My stint with McDonalds was back in 1991; fresh out of college, off to grad school in August. No one would hire me for a “serious” job knowing that I had to leave in three months… I hated that giant griddle.

    Now I make eggs for me - semisoft yolks, just before they turn into rubber eggs (”what did you expect from a rubber biscuit?”) They don’t drip, but they aren’t too hard. But I prefer shirred eggs or poached eggs if I want runny yolks. Check the old Fannie Farmer cookbooks - just like your old Joy of Cooking, the recipies are _real_

    Dangit - now I’m hungry and I have to go off to statistics…

  17. Comment @ 02/05/06 at 6:52 pm

    I found by happenstance that the sturdy lid for my Lodge Dutch oven (the volume of which I’d have to go look up) fits my larger Lodge skillet perfectly. Multipurpose is good.

    Also, that the small Visions (by Corel) glass saucepan lid fits the little, erm, McMuffin-sized skillet perfectly.

    Maybe Sandra could find odd bits like this at the garage sales?

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