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A Love That Endures

Posted January 12th, 2006 at 11:09 pm by Howard Tayler

I was enamored once. I had a crush. I thought, like most men with crushes, that She Was The One. I thought that come whatever, We Two would grow old together, aging gracefully, and sharing a love that endures.

She was the perfect cooking surface. Ah, my sweet Teflon. I brought home the bacon, and she was the pan I fried it up in. The hotcakes like which some things went always went best on Teflon’s smooth skin.

Her smooth skin… so amazing to the touch. It was as if it wasn’t even THERE it was so soft. And when Chupaqueso was but a twinkle in my eye, she was there, ready to bear it through the heat, the turning, the twisting… Teflon bore my child, and I thought we two were forever.

But it couldn’t last. I tried to treat her with care, I was as tender as a man can be, never abrasive, and never EVER using metal utensils. For a while it seemed like we WOULD see forever, but then her skin began to discolor, and my sweet Teflon started to grab things.

I did what I could. I worked around her rough edges, forgiving her the occasional stuck spot. But it only got worse. Her rough edges only got rougher, and Teflon’s smooth skin gave way to bare metal a bit at a time. And one day I realized the two of us were finished. I could no longer trust her to help me with meals, because she just wouldn’t let go of them. She had changed, and what she had become I could no longer abide atop my stove.

I thought about taking a younger bride into my kitchen, one whose Teflon skin was still supple, but the infatuation was gone. After all, I knew that no matter how kindly I treat her, any Teflon I bring home will eventually turn on me, ruining meals and making cleanup a nightmare. Oh, it might be years before that happened, but having seen the past I felt I could see the future, and it held only heartbreak, and stuff stuck to the pan.

Then I met her… Cast Iron. She seemed so ungainly at first. She wasn’t just rough around the edges — she was ALL rough edges, and bare metal ones at that. But she gave me this look, and she promised me that she could do everything teflon could, and that she really COULD do it forever… if only I’d spend a little time at the beginning of our relationship learning to use oil.

I was skeptical, but I got the oil, and my Cast Iron sweetheart and I worked on those rough edges. Two hours and three hundred degrees later I saw that her skin glistened, darkly daring me to TRY to stick something to it. So I did, and it didn’t, and we did it again and again and again. French toast, pancakes, omelettes, and of course fried cheese… she was untiring, and I had a big appetite.

I have a new love. She may look like she’s still a little rough around the edges, but OH! can she ever cook. She’s not as glamorous as Teflon, but she’s beautiful in her own way. And I can see already that she’ll grow more beautiful with time. The first time we made chupaquesos together, it was as if we’d been doing it for years. And the promise of Cast Iron is that we WILL be doing it for years. If I treat her well, breaking out the oil from time to time, and never throwing her in the dishwasher or leaving her outside in the rain, she’ll easily outlive me.

Okay, I’ll admit that it’s a little creepy thinking of my new love, my Cast Iron griddle, cooking with another man. But that’s decades away. When the time comes, I’ll just have to make sure that I find her a man who likes chupaquesos, and who knows how to use the oil.

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37 Comments to “A Love That Endures”

  1. Comment @ 01/12/06 at 11:16 pm

    So… um… yeah. We got a new cast iron griddle, and I really like it. The teflon one is going out with the trash.

  2. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 12:55 am

    There is nothing like a good iron skillet. They heat evenly, they hold heat longer, you can even take them camping and they’ll stand up to the rigors of camp cooking (stove or campfire). Seriously, you have made a wise choice.

  3. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:43 am

    As you’ll see when I post the tutorial, my stove is one of the smooth glass top types. I use a Teflon-coated aluminum skillet for my chupaquesos. It takes about four minutes to come up to temperature from a cold start. How well would cast iron work on that stove?

  4. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:44 am

    Skillets are nice, but what we got is a full griddle. I say “full.” It’s about 18 inches long and 10 inches wide — perfect for fitting front-to-back on two burners of our gas range in the kitchen. They make much larger ones that would have fit left-to-right, but our burners are too far apart in that direction — I don’t care HOW evenly cast iron heats up, a twelve-inch gap between heat sources on a 28-inch surface wouldn’t make for consistent pancakes.

    Anyway, this shorter one does heat evenly. It’s also less sensitive to quick changes in burner temperature. This takes some getting used to. Gas may provide “instant” heat, but if you get the griddle too hot, turning the burner down only serves to start the clock. You still have to wait a couple of minutes for the griddle to shed the extra heat.

  5. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:47 am

    Jay — cast iron would take much longer to heat up. It would work fine once you got it up to temperature, and in fact I think the flavor might be a little better. I’m learning that one of the reasons teflon is so short-lived is that it evaporates. The “seasoning” in a cast iron griddle or skillet does too (and faster!) but it’s made of stuff you can eat, and actually adds some nice flavor.

  6. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:53 am

    Ah, the memories of my youth, my first love was cast iron. A fickle lady skillet that would take the embrace of the gas flame and produce the perfect flapjack, but gradually become too hot for the batter to handle and leave it hard and blackened while the inside was runny. Many a pancake was flipped to the dogs before I learned her ways. The gentle turn of the dial. The patience to wait for the heat to build within her great belly. Finally the tiny twist that would hold her steady through a bowl of batter. Gently she brought me through potato cakes and corn batters, burgers, squash, green tomatoes, even doughnuts. But alas, though I learned her ways, she was just as fickle in the end. She left with my sister, and I remained alone without even a skilletbread to call my own.

    It took time and patience, but a well seasoned pan came into my life. Dark with age, smooth of surface and tough enough to withstand the harshest spatula. She and I scoff at my wife’s non-stick coated aluminum; the Silverstone that shines with vallies left by reality’s harsh touch.

    Best of all, when her royal presence graces the stove and the smell of melting butter wafts through the house, the children gather about her as surely as they gather about the tree at Christmas, and with faces lit with enthusiasm equal to that inspired by the holiday, they cheer us on with, “Yay! Pancakes!”

  7. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 2:45 am

    Cast-iron is the lovliest lof lovlies. Clean-up’s easy, too. A little salt, a little oil, a paper towel and some elbow grease.

  8. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 3:42 am

    Hm. Sounds like a cast iron pan (of whatever size) is like a jet engine: it takes a while for throttle changes to be reflected in power output.

  9. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 6:07 am

    Actually, you’re not far off on the Cast Iron lifespan. My dad has a skillet that’s been in our family for more than forty years, and before that it was owned by someone for many, many more years who cooked for the schoolteachers who were just up the street.

  10. Zaj
    Comment @ 01/13/06 at 7:08 am

    and so versatile, it was an ex girlfriend who pointed out that a cast iron frying pan is not merely a blunt instrument, oh no, never forget, IT HAS AN EDGE. At a pinch you could probably chop a small tree down with one. Removing the top of a man’s head like the end of a boiled egg? I didn’t wait around to find out.

  11. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 8:23 am

    Jay: The cast iron griddle is heavy. It might scratch the surface of your glass top stove.

  12. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:09 pm

    Fie on electric ranges and polytetrafluoroethylene anyhow! A perfect example of technology not, in fact, making anything better.

    I can never manage to cook anything right at my parents’ house, because it takes (seemingly) half an hour for the pan to heat up and then it’s uneven.

    Also, you can put a season on other materials. I have a steel wok that needs seasoning, which would be a hassle if I ever used it for anything other than popcorn.

  13. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:44 pm

    Ah, cast iron [/anime twinkles]. Ever so good for post-hurricane no-electricity cooking. It was like camping with a sink handy.

  14. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 1:53 pm

    I’ve been thinking about upgrading to cast iron. I’m giving modern tech one last try though. Bought a hard anodized 10″ skillet today.

    Where the heck do you get cast iron cookware these days anyway? At a, um, reasonable price.

  15. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 2:14 pm

    Where the heck do you get cast iron cookware these days anyway? At a, um, reasonable price.

    Lodge. Mostly.

  16. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 3:21 pm

    Corgi’s right. Lodge has the best selection, and a long-standing reputation for quality. I got mine at Sears, though. Anyplace that has decent housewares will carry cast iron. Wal-Mart has ‘em. Sam’s Club (membership warehouse) has ‘em. Oh, and you can find plenty of places by shopzilla-ing (www.shopzilla.com) the phrase “cast iron skillet” or “cast iron griddle.”

    By the way, Corgi — it would appear that you got anime twinkles on my cast iron. Cut that out. It’s creepy.

  17. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 3:49 pm

    You can find a decent selection of Lodge cast iron at your local hardware store, as well. As odd as that seems.

  18. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 6:51 pm

    Electric ranges…. fooooo

    I can never seem to cook anything without burning or undercooking it. I’ll take low-order hydrocarbon oxidation over electronic aggrivation of tungsten any day.

  19. Comment @ 01/13/06 at 8:50 pm

    [hastily and delicately brushes off Howard’s ladygriddle]

  20. Comment @ 01/14/06 at 1:02 am

    ::looks sheepish::
    Lets see. First, while I’m familiar with the look of seasoned cast iron skillets, how can I tell if my Wok is cast iron?
    Second, when I get a skillet of doom, how do I go about seasoning it?
    Third…. mmmm… cheese.

  21. Comment @ 01/14/06 at 1:09 am

    Lodge is the last company making cast iron cookware in America. That’s got to count for something. My dear sweet mother got me one of their latest, and they even managed to improve over themselves. My 18 inch skillet was pre-seasoned. They do it at the plant, in a huge oven with non-reactive food grade oils, sprayed on like a coating of auto paint.

    Funny story, the first cast iron skillet I got split in half the first time I heated it. It had an errant air bubble inside the casting. The company, of course, replaced it free of charge, and I’ve never been happier with a piece of cookware.

    I also have a nice electric griddle with a CI surface in my Gen-Air downdraft range, It’s nice, but we’re probably going to replace it with a Viking 6-burner sealed gas slide-in that fits the same hole size (30 inches. I build countertops for a living, so I regularly cut them out.)

  22. Comment @ 01/14/06 at 2:52 am

    The best pan I have cost me 50p (a bit under a dollar right now) on a stall in a sale. It’s made by by a company called Holcroft and is probably at least 50 years old… If you search the web, as I did, you can find patent applications for improved frying pans by the same company dating back to the 1800s.

    and yes, it’s cast iron and so well seasoned over the years that I susepct it’s actually not capable of rusting even if you tried, not that I do.

  23. Comment @ 01/14/06 at 10:28 am

    Denubis:

    As for your wok: does it weigh a ton? Does the idea of grabbing it by the handle and giving it a quick flip to toss the food around in it sound as appealing as a trip to the hospital with a strained wrist? Does it take minutes to come up to a good working temperature for stir frying and react to changes in gas flame levels like an ocean liner?

    Wok cooking does not go well with cast iron. But all is not lost. Virtually any porous cooking surface can be seasoned with enough effort, and the best woks are well-seasoned and have the same hard, smooth, non-stick surface as a well-seasoned CI skillet/grittle/dutch oven/etc.

    I season my CI and wok (when they need to be reseasoned, which is rarely) by:

    1. if the CI is brand new, or has been fire-cleaned or some well-meaning friend who doesn’t understand the meaning of “AIGGGGHHHH!!!! Why did you put my skillet in the dishwasher!!!!!!” has been helping me with kitchen cleanup, I’ll get a paper towel, saturate it in vegetable oil, and thoroughly rub the entire surface, inside and out, with oil to get it thoroughly coated with no patch of bare metal left. Then I’ll bake it at 400F for an hour or so and let it cool in the oven. I’ll repeat that a couple of times more. That will give a good water-proof surface over the entire CI, which will prevent rusting. For the cook surface, I’d toughen it up harder by putting it on the stove, filling it with 1-2cm of vegetable oil, heating it until the oil starts to smoke, let it cool (w/ the oil in it), and reheat/cool it for several more cycles.

    The idea is to build up layers of decomposed hydrocarbons embedded in the surface pores of the metal. Repeated applications of oil to the hot surface will do this.

    Obviously, filling a wok up with oil for heat/cool cycles is extraordinarily wasteful of fuel and oil, so I usually heat the empty wok up to smoke-temerature and rub it down with a cloth or paper rag saturated with vegetable oil (usually held in tongs, so I don’t burn myself too badly), letting it smoke like crazy in the process. I wipe out any excess oil, let it cool, and repeat.

    My father got a 3′ diameter spun-steel commercial wok for deepfrying eggrolls in a very showy manner. For about a year, it was used every weekend full to the brim with hot vegetable oil. Now *that* is the seasoned wok I want to inherit.

  24. Comment @ 01/14/06 at 10:39 am

    My wok came with instructions for an alternate method of seasoning using salt. Can’t recall, lost the tag, sorry. But it’s possible.

  25. Comment @ 01/15/06 at 11:32 am

    I love cast iron!

    My humans have several skillets, ranging from “one egg over easy” to “6-egg omlette”, and several “specialty” pans including a “fajita pan” that’s a perfect one-burner griddle, and an antique (been in the family for over 40 years) cornbread pan.

    The cornbread pan is about 6″ across, and is a normal pan other than it’s permanently divided into 8 pie-shaped wedges. By “permanently”, I mean the dividers are cast iron, part of the whole pan. Heat it up on the stovetop, add butter and cornbread batter, then throw the whole thing in the oven! Tasty cornbread, and since the wedges are single-serving, everyones’ piece is the same size, and nobody turns the whole cornbread into a plate full of crumbs trying to cut off a slice.

    I love cast iron!

  26. Comment @ 01/16/06 at 7:01 pm

    After reading the numerous posts here I decided “I gotta try this.” I went out and bought a Lodge preseasoned cast iron skillet, some shredded cheddar and mozarella. Got it home, followed the care instructions on the skillet, added my cheese…

    Something went wrong.

    The cheese stuck to the bottom of the skillet and seems to now be firmly glued there. I tried cleaning as per the instructions, a wire brush and hot water, to no avail. I just dropped $10 hard earned college student bucks on this skillet and I’d really like to get more than one failed attempt out of it. Any suggestions?

  27. Comment @ 01/16/06 at 10:57 pm

    Mike S: The problem is that “pre-seasoned” is not the same as “ready to cook on.” It takes a while, sometimes three or four cooking sessions, before a cast iron surface is really READY.

    The good news is that what you’re out right now is the burnt cheese, not the cost of the pan. Get it good and hot, and I assure you, whatever’s burnt to it will burn off before the iron gets too hot. If you’re cooking over gas, it’s easy to heat that pan up to the point that it’s self-cleaning (note: it’ll be too hot to handle without a mitt, and it’ll need seasoning after doing that.)

    You can also boil water in it, and that usually loosens up whatever’s attached. That’s got the added bonus of being safer and less smoky.

    –Howard

  28. Comment @ 01/17/06 at 3:52 am

    Thanks a lot, I’ll try that as soon as I get home tomorrow.

  29. Comment @ 01/17/06 at 7:59 pm

    Every so often Cosco and Sam’s club have a cast iron set on sale for $30 or so. Once we have the money for that, I’ll pick it up and let ya’ll know how it is.

    I have a LeClerc (sp?) skillet I picked up at a garage sale. It’s 14″ round cast iron, enameled on the outside. Only downside is that it has/had a non-stick surface that looks like someone took a belt sander to it. I’m wondering if I should go and finish the job, giving it a nice polished iron surface? Do ya’ll think it’s possible to safely remove non-stick from cast iron?

  30. Comment @ 01/18/06 at 5:27 pm

    Gilmoure,

    Depends on whether what’s under the non-stick surface is reasonably pure iron, how you can tell when you’ve removed all the crap (erm, sorry, non-stick evil) and whether you’re left with enough iron to make a decent skillet.

    For the money, you’re probably better looking for cast iron that started life as cast iron, but that’s my opinion. Who listens to cats anyway?

    Mew

  31. Jim
    Comment @ 01/18/06 at 9:09 pm

    Okay, so as soon as I got an apartment with a gas stove I picked up a Lodge cast-iron pan, and it’s been great so far. Beef and tuna steaks primarily, and they come out really tasty. The only thing is, when I cook meat (probably other things too, but I haven’t tried much else yet) little bits of stuff always stick to the pan, and I have to really scrub to get it off. I’m worried that I didn’t season it right and that the vigorous cleaning will take off what little nonstickness is left on the cooking surface. I also tried cleaning with the salt-oil-paper towels method described in my Alton Brown book, but all that’s gotten me is a dirty skillet with little bits of torn-up paper towel in it. Double-u tee eff, mates? Is there some unstoppable seasoning technique I’m missing?

  32. Comment @ 01/18/06 at 10:58 pm

    If say… you lacked a teflon OR a cast iron pan, with oil ore the whatnot, would it still be possible to cook a chupaqueso?

  33. Comment @ 01/19/06 at 2:42 am

    Jim, I’ve been using cast iron ever since I was introduced to it by Taco the Octopus (www.8legged.com - *highly* recommended site; very entertaining and educational cooking show). He has a short section of cast-iron seasoning and care tips in the “Extras” section of Episode 7: “Fleeb Cooks a Cow”.

    His recommended method of seasoning the pan for the first time is to warm it in the oven for a few minutes at 350, coat it with vegetable shortening and bake it for an hour upside down. (Put a pan under it to catch dripping grease!) The shortening provides a thicker coating that sticks to the pan longer while it’s baking so you don’t have to apply multiple coats.

    To clean it, pour a fair amount of kosher salt (it’s coarser, so it scrubs more easily) and a liittle bit of vegetable oil into the pan- *while it’s still warm*- and rub it around with a paper towel. The salt will absorb the grease and scrub off whatever you were cooking- treat it kind of like speedy-dry.

    Once you’ve got the pan clean, wipe it down with a little bit of oil to help replace any of the seasoning you might have removed, and you’re all set for next time. Again, do all of this while the pan is still warm. Once it cools, forget it. You’ll have to reheat it to clean it.

    Also, Taco recommends recuring your pan once a year or so to remove any funky flavors the seasoning may have picked up from the foods you cook.

    I’ve been doing this for a couple of years now, and I couldn’t be happier with the results!

  34. Comment @ 01/19/06 at 2:47 am

    Also, Jay- like Sandra warned, be careful of using cast iron on your glass top stove. Most (all?) glass top stoves warn against using cast iron on them- check your owner’s manual. My family recently bought a traditional coil element stove specifically due to that one factor. Otherwise, glass top would be nice. (Although, if gas were an option for our rental house, we would have gone that route. *sigh*) :)

  35. Comment @ 01/19/06 at 10:11 pm

    Jim

    What you’re missing is called deglazing. Right after cooking the meat, add red or white wine (or water) to the pan.
    Heat up the liquid while scraping at the little bits on the bottom until they dissolve. Use the resulting brownish liquid
    as the base for a wonderful sauce.

    Deglazing definitely does not work with the teflon non-stick pans.

  36. Comment @ 01/30/06 at 9:26 pm

    Baggins - There is always propane!

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